Children and Pets
Indoor vs. Outdoor Cats
Grooming Your Pet
Microchips - Why are They Important?
Obesity (Feline)
Thin is In!

The birth of a baby or adoption of a new child is associated with a great deal of anxiety, excitement, and stress for not only the family, but also the family pet. Some dogs and cats can have a difficult time adjusting to these changes, especially if this is your first child, but preparation and planning will help.

How is my pet likely to respond to the new arrival?

There are so many different variables that it is impossible to accurately predict the way that any pet might get along with children. However, there are considerations that give some insight into how your pet might react.

How much exposure has your pet had previously to children?  How has your pet reacted when it has been exposed?  The most serious concern is the pet that has previously reacted aggressively or fearfully with children. If there have been previous problems you should consult with a veterinary behaviorist to determine the situations that have previously led to aggression, and the safest way, if any, to make the transition. If the pet’s previous problems were with a specific child, a specific age group or under specific circumstances, it may be possible to design a program so that the previous situations that resulted in aggression can be treated and resolved prior to the arrival of your new child.

The next most serious concern is the pet that has had little or no exposure to young children or babies. A lack of early socialization to children may lead to some initial anxiety or fear associated with the sights, sounds and odors of the new child. If there are no unpleasant experiences when the child first arrives, and the first few introductions are made positive, there may be no problems. Even if a pet has shown no previous problems when interacting with children, keeping all introductions positive will help to get the relationship between your pet and your new child off to a good start.

One final concern is the growth and development of your child. As your child progresses from being carried to one that rolls, crawls, and begins to walk, and so on through childhood, some pets may have trouble adapting to one or more of these changes. Fear, dominance challenges, possessive displays, and playful behaviors could result in aggression. Anxiety or fear could lead to anorexia, compulsive disorders (e.g. flank sucking, acral lick dermatitis), or destructiveness (e.g. house-soiling, marking, chewing, digging).

What can we do to prepare for the new arrival?

Behavior problems (destructiveness, house-soiling, compulsive disorders, increased demands for attention, generalized anxiety) may not develop directly from the arrival of the child, but rather from the changes in the household, associated with the new arrival. With nine months or more to prepare for a baby’s arrival, the best way to minimize problems and help the pet to cope is to make changes gradually so that they have been completed prior to the arrival of the child. Consider any changes that you may need to make in the pet’s schedule, housing, play, exercise, or attention, so that adjustments can begin to be made well before the baby’s arrival. Set up the nursery in advance and if the pet is to be kept out of the room, access should be denied before the child’s arrival. Otherwise, if your intention is to allow your pet to continue to enter the room when supervised, begin to accompany your pet into the nursery, so that it can adapt to the new odors and new setup. The dog should be allowed to investigate the baby’s room, blankets, and new furniture, and praised or given a small food treat so that it can develop a positive association with each of these new cues.

For dogs, reviewing or upgrading obedience skills is essential so that you can safely and effectively control your dog in all situations. Obedience training should be reviewed every day, in a variety of locations and circumstances. Practice each command in different rooms of the home, in the yard, while out on walks, and when visitors come to the home. Concentrate on those commands that are presently the least successful, using prompts and rewards to achieve success and then gradually shaping the response so that the pet stays for progressively longer times, comes from greater distances and will heel and follow even when there are distractions. Any existing behavior problems should be resolved before the arrival of your baby.

Some pets might become anxious of, or fearful toward, any of the new and different stimuli associated with the sights, sounds, or odors of the new child. New activities associated with childcare can be practiced in front of pets so that they can become familiar with them. Tape recordings or videos of babies crying, holding a doll wrapped in a blanket, taking your dog for a walk beside a stroller or baby carriage, or even going through the motions of changing a diaper and applying baby powder will simulate some of the experiences to which your pet will soon be exposed. If there is any sign of anxiety associated with any of these situations, then more formal reward-based training should be practiced and repeated until the pet exhibits no problems in the presence of the stimuli. By providing a favored chew toy, giving a food reward, or providing extra affection during these activities, your pet may actually learn to enjoy these new stimuli.

Once your pet shows no fear or anxiety in some or all of these situations, you may want to enlist the help of some friends or relatives with young children. Dogs can be taken for a walk while the child is rolled in the stroller or carriage. A baby can be carried around the home or nursed in the presence of the dog and children should be encouraged to play at the opposite end of a room or yard from where the dog is situated. The dog must be well controlled, preferably with a leash and head halter, and given food rewards and/or play to keep the association positive. A wire-meshed muzzle could also be applied to ensure additional safety, especially when being exposed to new situations. By the end of the visit it may even be possible to let the dog interact with the child but only if it remains friendly and shows no fear or anxiety.

For cats, the most important adaptation is to any changes that will be needed in the cat’s home. Although fear and anxiety to the sights and sounds of a new baby are possible, adapting to changes in the household are often the most trying for cats. For example, obtaining new furniture, altering the cat’s feeding, sleeping, elimination or play areas, and trying to keep the cat out of certain locations such as the crib, should all be considered before the arrival of the baby. To reduce the chances of the cat marking new furniture, the first few introductions to the new areas should be well supervised. Once your cat has investigated and rubbed against the new furniture, spraying is far less likely. Similarly, when the crib or cradle is first set up, the cat may wish to mark the area, or investigate, or even to sleep in the crib. Booby trapping areas (see our handout Controlling undesirable behavior in cats – the role of punishment) can teach the cat to stay away from the areas of concern, well before the baby arrives.

Remember, each of these techniques are intended to help the pet adapt to changes in the household or lifestyle before the arrival of the baby. Once the baby arrives, there will be far less time to deal with the needs of the pet, and there will be additional variables to which your pet will need to adapt. Even if your pet does begin to exhibit fear or anxiety, during this pre-arrival training, such anxiety will not be associated with the presence of the child. The cat will have no reason to develop animosity to the new child.

What should be done when the baby arrives?

Progress gradually, avoid any situations that might lead to fear, anxiety or discomfort in the baby’s presence and make all associations and experiences in the baby’s presence positive. Maintain or even increase the amount and type of training, exercise, and play.

Even a curious and affectionate pet may have some problems adjusting to the new arrival. Jumping up to greet when the baby is being carried, barking during the baby’s sleep or nap times, raiding the diaper pail, licking the baby’s face, or cuddling up to sleep against an infant who is still unable to shift position are just a few of the concerns and potential problems that pet owners may need to deal with. Keep your pet’s nails well trimmed. Supervise all interactions between the pet and baby. Keep the pet out of the baby’s room during nap and sleeping times. Ensure that your dog is well controlled and responsive to obedience training commands. For some dogs, leaving a leash attached (preferably to a head collar) is a useful way to ensure additional control.

The most important aspect of retraining is to reward the pet for obedient and relaxed behavior in the presence of the child. In many households there will be less time and energy available for the pet. While focused on the child, or attending to the chores associated with parenthood, the pet may be ignored, disciplined for approaching too close, or confined to a different area of the home. Your pet may still receive its play, exercise, affection, food and attention, but often not until the baby is finally asleep or is under the care of some other family member. Many pets soon learn that the presence of the baby is a time for inattention, confinement, or even punishment, while the absence of the baby is a cue for “good things” to happen. This must be reversed. Every effort should be made to allow the pet into the room for food, play or affection when the baby is present. Feed the pet when the baby is being fed, or have another family member give affection to the pet, play with the pet, or do some reward training (stay, go to your mat) when the child is in the room. Take your dog outdoors for play or a walk when you are taking the child out. The goal is to teach the pet that positives or “good things” are most likely to happen in the presence of the child and to avoid any negative association with the child.

What should be done if aggression arises? 

Such behavior is very upsetting, regardless of its reasons. An immediate decision on whether to keep and work with the pet or remove it from the home must be made. Dogs targeting children may be motivated by fear, dominance, possessive, redirected, playful or predatory aggression. Such aggression (particularly predatory and fear) may arise immediately when the child is brought into the home, or may begin as the child becomes more mobile (e.g. fear, predation, possessive, play) or when the child grows a little older and begins to challenge the dog (fear, dominance, possessive, play). Cat aggression toward children can be fear-induced, redirected, territorial, or play/predatory. For most aggression cases, especially those directed toward children, the guidance and advice of a behaviorist is strongly suggested since it will be necessary to make an accurate diagnosis, determine the prognosis (the chances of safe and effective treatment) and guide you through a treatment program. Although some cases may be treated quickly and safely, most cases require extensive precautions to prevent injuries and a great deal of time, effort and commitment. Regardless of reason for aggression, biting dogs should be leashed  (attached to the owner) preferably with a head collar, muzzled and closely supervised or crated in the presence of small children. Aggressive cats should be confined away from small children except when they are in a carrier, on a leash and harness, or well supervised and either calm or otherwise occupied with food or toys. For a discussion of specific types of aggression ask for our other handouts.

How can I teach my children to be safe around pets?

Although there are no rules that will guarantee safety, there are important guidelines that can be followed to reduce the chances of problems and the risk of injury. The first rule of thumb is to avoid doing anything to the dog that you might not want your child to do. This would include physical punishment, rough play, or teasing. Children must be taught how to interact with and handle their family pet including how to approach, pat or lift small pets. Wherever possible, play sessions and training should include the children with the supervision of a parent. This can begin from the time the dog is a puppy by attending puppy classes and obedience classes that include all members of the family. If the pet has not previously exhibited possessiveness of food or toys, the adults can practice with the children approaching the dog at its food bowl, patting and giving favored treats, along with teaching the give or drop command for favored treats. It may be best to use a leash and head halter during this training if there is any concern that the dog might resist or become anxious.

While your dog may appear to tolerate or even enjoy handling from people of all ages, you must teach your child how to meet, greet and handle animals. The child will be safest if taught to avoid hugging, tugging on the leash, collar or tail and handling around the eyes, ears and muzzle. Even if the dog is familiar it is best to avoid reaching toward the head or face to face greetings.

Children must also be taught that strange pets may not behave in the same way as their family pet. A simple rule is that the child should NEVER approach another family’s pet without being given permission and then to approach slowly and avoid reaching for the head and face. Children should be taught to avoid pets entirely if they are displaying any signs that might indicate fearfulness (shaking, ears back, tail between legs, crouch, trying to escape) or aggression (growling, showing teeth, barking, hair standing on end). Although most children would be tempted to run away from an aggressive dog, they should be taught to stand still like a tree, with the arms against the body, and avoid eye contact and yelling or screaming. If the child is on the ground they should curl up and cover their head and ears with their arms and fists, and remain still until the dog moves away. Any threatening dog or bite should be immediately reported to an adult.

This client information sheet is based on material written by Debra Horwitz, DVM, DACVB and

Gary Landsberg, DVM, DACVB. © Copyright 2002 Lifelearn Inc. Used with permission under license. November 24, 2003 .

Is it better to let your cat outside, or keep him in?  Of course our cats love to be outside, basking in the sun, playing with leaves, insects, hunting for mice, but is it worth the risk?  We don't let our dogs run wild and free, so why do we let our cats? 

According to a study of New England cat owners, 60% keep cats strictly indoors and 40% allow some outdoor access;  97.1% of all cats in the study were called inside at night.

There are many disadvantages to your cat going outside without supervision:

Some people believe that cats need to go outside to be happy.  This is not true.  As long as you provide various toys and cat trees, and play with your cat regularly, any cat can be an indoor cat.  These toys don't have to be expensive, most cats love cardboard boxes and paper bags!  There is a wide variety of cat furniture that your cat can play on and climb.  Some of these have been treated with catnip and your cat loves it from the moment you bring it home!

Cats can safely visit the outdoors with your supervision.  Many cats can be trained to walk on a leash.  You can also buy or build an enclosure to keep your cat safe. 

Many cats are notorious for trying to dash out an open door.  To stop this behavior, try these tips, and remember to be consistent!  Don't let your cat outside once and then expect him to stay in the next day.  The less he gets outside, the less he'll try to get out.  Be sure your cat is microchipped or has a collar with identification on it.  This way, if he gets lost, he'll be more likely to be returned to you.  Also, neutered cats are less likely to try and escape.

If your cat tries to run out when you are going out the door, try to redirect her attention on food or toys.  As you leave, throw you cat a treat/toy to keep her mind off of the open door.  You can also shake a can of pennies or squirt her with a water gun (never in the face) when your cat tries to dash for the door, or use a scat mat at the door. 

If your cat tries to get out as you're coming in, have the squirt bottle or penny can outside and as you open the door slowly, squirt her or shake the can when you see her nose poking out.  Ssscat cans are also very good tools to keep cats away from certain areas.

Grooming is an important part of keeping your pet healthy.  Brushing/combing stimulates circulation, removes loose hair that can end up on furniture and clothing or in the stomach as hairballs.  It prevents matting that not only looks bad, but is irritating to the skin.  They can be itchy and even lead to infection.  Grooming is also important because it makes you pay attention to any changes of the body (new lumps, ticks, fleas, etc.).  Last but not least, you spend quality time with your pet. 

It's best to get your pet used to grooming as a puppy or kitten.  Always make it a positive experience, giving lots of praise and treats.  Establish a routine, the more you do it, the faster your pet will get used to it.  Whether your pet is young or old, follow these tips to get your pet to enjoy (or tolerate) grooming.  You may want to cut your cat's nails as a first step, in case he gets mad at you!  I'll explain nail trims below. 

Start when your pet is relaxed and just start petting, stroking, and talking gently.  Start running your fingers through the fur, like a comb.  Some knots can be untangled with your fingers.  Next, introduce the comb itself, while still petting with your hand. A simple metal comb is the best tool.  Keep these sessions short, trying to end before your pet gets irritated.  Give yummy treats that she only gets when you groom her. 

For big mats, be gentle and take your time working them out.  Most pets hate grooming because they associate it with the pain of pulling their hair.  Think about if you have a knot in your hair.  If you can, hold the mat close to the skin while you work on untangling it, to reduce pulling on the skin.  DO NOT EVER USE SCISSORS TO CUT OUT MATS!!  When they are close to the skin, it is very difficult to tell where fur ends and skin begins!  Cat skin is extremely delicate and easy to cut.  If the mat is very close to the skin, you may need to bring your pet to a groomer or to us so we can shave it out. 

Okay, nail trims.  Many people don't know it's necessary.  Many people are nervous to do this themselves.  Nails that get too long are more liable to break, often near the base, which is very painful and they bleed all over the place.  Don't let that happen!  Trimming nails is easy, and the more you do it, the more comfortable you will be with it. 

Dogs and cats have the same basic anatomy.  There is a blood vessel (the quick), surrounded by the nail sheath.  Cats are easy because their nails are clear and you can see the quick.  Just take the tips off and stay away from the pink and you'll be fine. 

If you do accidentally get the quick, don't worry!  Your dog will forgive you, and we've all done it, even the professionals.  Every dog has different nails, and some don't follow the rules.  Just have some styptic powder on hand (picture at right).  Dab a little on the end of the nail, and bleeding should stop. 

If you still don't want to trim your pet's nails, you can always have us do it, or give you tips on how to do it.  We're always happy to help you!

What are microchips?

 Why should you get one for your pet?

1)    More than 10 million pets are lost or stolen every year
2)    More than half of impounded cats/dogs are without collars by the time they reach the shelter
3)    Only 16% of dogs and 2% of cats are reclaimed by their owners
4)    56% of dogs and 72% of cats are euthanized because they have no form of ID
5)    Collar tags can be lost and tattoos can fade or be altered;  microchips are permanent and tamper-resistant
6)    One microchip and a one-time enrollment fee makes your pet protected for life
7)    3000-4000 pets are recovered every month as a result of microchips
8)    Spay/neuter, vaccinate, and microchip is a 3-step program of responsible pet care endorsed by many vets
9)    It's fast, affordable, and painless
10)  It's available for all dogs and cats

How can you get one?

Just call us and let us know you're interested!  We can do it during a simple 5-minute technician appointment or do it at your pet's regular exam.  

To learn more about microchips, visit www.HomeAgainID.com or www.akccar.org.

 IMPORTANT UPDATE ON MICROCHIPS!!!

Be very careful when you get a microchip from other places.  Be sure to ask what kind is being implanted.  Banfield, the hospital associated with Petsmart, is one of the hospitals that has moved to an ISO chip (International Standards Organization).  While, eventually, all shelters and veterinary hospitals may move to this new chip, most facilities do not have a scanner that can read it.  It works on a different frequency than the more common chips.  Therefore, if your pet is lost and has one of these chips and ends up at a shelter or vet hospital without the new scanner, it will not be scanned and your pet may be adopted out again!  Don't waste your money!  Make sure the chip is either an AVID chip or a Home Again chip (the most common).  Until a universal scanner is developed and distributed to all shelters/clinics, we need to keep using the more common chips.  To read more about this subject, go to americanhumane.org.

Another important thing is to always have identification on your pet in the form of some sort of tag.  Even just the rabies tag is enough to ensure your pet comes back home. 

Is feline obesity a problem?

Yes - obesity, defined as an excess of body weight of 20% or more, is the most common nutritional disease of domestic cats. Although the frequency varies from one country to the next, on average up to 40% of all adult cats are obese!  Despite these alarming figures, very little is known about the detrimental effects of obesity on feline health. Obesity in cats is a known risk factor for both diabetes mellitus and lower urinary tract disease. In humans, obesity causes an increase in morbidity and mortality at all ages and is associated with diabetes mellitus, certain types of cancer, impaired mobility and arthritis, high blood pressure, heart disease, and other illnesses. Recent studies suggest that heart disease also occurs in obese cats!  More research is needed to evaluate this and to determine what other detrimental effects obesity has on cats.

Finally, obesity in cats is associated with hepatic lipidosis. This is a severe form of liver failure in cats. It typically occurs in cats that are obese and have undergone a brief period of “stress” which causes anorexia. The “stress” may be as simple as a change of house or a change in diet. Hepatic lipidosis previously was an almost universally fatal disease in cats. Fortunately, with improved, aggressive and prolonged therapy about 80% of affected cats can now be successfully treated. However, because of the risk for this potentially fatal disease, the treatment of feline obesity needs to be done cautiously and always under the care of a veterinarian.

What causes obesity in cats and how should it be treated?

Many factors contribute to obesity in cats, and not all of them are clearly understood. Some are probably genetic, while others are clearly related to diet and environment. It is important for the cat owner and veterinarian to keep these factors in mind when treating the obese feline patient. Prevention is better than treatment, but this is not always easy. Indoor cats are more prone to obesity, perhaps because they eat more out of boredom, but also because they have less opportunity to stay trim through exercise. Remember that everybody should run and play, including cats! 

Once a cat becomes obese, the challenge for owner and veterinarian is to safely promote weight loss and maintain optimum weight. In the long run it is better to set realistic goals for weight reduction rather than attempting to force the cat down to a “normal” weight. Usually a 15-20% reduction in weight is a good target that can easily be achieved!  Rapid weight loss should be avoided, since it puts the cat at risk for development of severe liver disease. Weight that is lost slowly is more likely to stay lost!  There are no drugs or magic pills that can be used safely or effectively. Commercial “low-calorie” diets are available from veterinarians and provide the basis for a successful weight loss program. However, they are more effective when combined with additional exercise. This also has the advantage of providing more time for interaction between the cat and the family, which we know provides enjoyment and is beneficial for the health of both. With some patience and extra care, obese cats can be treated safely and effectively, with the ultimate goal of prolonging a healthy happy life!

Obesity in pets causes a lot of the same problems it does in people. An overweight pet is prone to a host of related problems, including: diabetes, joint, ligament and tendon difficulties, breathing and heart challenges. Overweight cats can even develop skin problems from not being able to groom themselves properly. The overall impact on comfort and longevity can be dire.

The good news is that it's not as difficult to trim down pets as it might be to fight your own battles with the bulge. After all, pets can't open the refrigerator on their own, nor can they grab the car keys for a fast-food run or phone out for pizza. What pets eat is wholly dependent on what we give them. And although we might shudder at the idea of exercise, our pets are always up for a brisk walk, a game of fetch, or some play with a toy on a string. They love to move, especially if we're moving with them.

Is your pet overweight? Healthy pets have some padding on them, but a little is plenty. Rub your hands over the ribs of your dog or cat. The skin should move easily back and forth, and you should be able to feel the ribs. Your pet should have a definable "waist" at the bottom of the rib cage, a small tuck-in at the stomach. Take a look from the side: If your pet looks pregnant, he's fat. From above, a bump out from the middle into an apple shape is equally bad news.

Certain breeds and species seem more susceptible to spread. In dogs, Labradors beef up pretty easily, as do cockers and beagles. Less-active cats such as Persians are more prone to gaining weight than the go-go breeds such as the Siamese. Crash diets aren't good for pets, especially not for fat cats, who can develop a fatal liver problem if forced to reduce too quickly. A pet doesn't get fat overnight, and he shouldn't be forced to change course any more rapidly. What you'll need to do is change your pet's eating and exercise habits gradually.

The best place to start is with a trip to your veterinarian. You'll want to make sure your pet doesn't have any problems that might make lifestyle changes difficult or dangerous. Your vet can also suggest a food plan that might help.

Carve some time out of your schedule to walk your dog or play with your cat -- three times a week, at least. Be sure to work in some aerobic exercise, anything that gets a cat or dog running.

Hills Prescription Diet is sponsoring a new Program to encourage owners to get their dogs and cats in shape. Share your pet's weight loss success story and be entered in a contest to win a free year supply of Hill's pet food on PetFit.com.

You will be able to size up your pets degree of fitness as well as get helpful hints on exercise, diet and free gifts for signing up for the challenge.

In addition Care Animal Hospital is giving away a water bottle holder, bottle and odometer for all clients who bring their pet in for a weight consult exam and join the Hill's challenge!